Few rooms have said goodbye to as many years as this one.

At Savoy Grill this New Year’s Eve, the menu leads the way to midnight: crisp chicken Caesar crowned with Oscietra caviar, Scottish native lobster salad bright with tarragon and nori. Bouchée à la reine follows, with veal sweetbread folded through silky white truffle, before a Tournedos Rossini takes centre-stage: Angus beef fillet, duck liver, sauce Bordelaise. Then, a Vacherin Mont d’Or, oozing vin jaune and served with walnut soda bread, and the year closes on a dark chocolate and tonka délice, rich and scorched at the edges.

Between courses, a magician moves from table to table, with a little sleight of hand to keep the night guessing.

Stay for the countdown; this room has had plenty of practice.

Seven courses, for £345 per person.

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